The Making of a Craft Studio (Part III) – If You Build It, She Will Come!!

In part II of The Making of a Craft Studio, I showed you how to use Ikea’s Pax Planner to design a storage solution for your craft studio (see Canadian version and US version here).

Today, I’m going to highlight installing the cabinets, some of the indispensable tools we used in the installation, installation tips specific to drawers and how we adapted an Ikea pullout to work at the bottom of one of our cabinets. I’m also going to show you how I’ve started to use the cabinets to organize all my craft goodies and tools!

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Craft studio of dreams; if you build it, she will come!

Installation

Ikea’s instructions are quite good so I’ll just hit on some of the highlights to be aware of when putting your units together.

The first thing is to be sure you have enough headroom to build it on the ground and then stand it up. For the 79 1/4″ high units that we built, you will need a minimum ceiling height of 80 3/4″. If you don’t, Ikea provides instructions for building it upright too. The front of each cabinet has adjustable feet in case your floor happens to be out of level.

When you’re hammering on the backing, Ikea provides a great little gadget to prevent you from missing the nail and hitting your fingers instead. I don’t know about you, buy I need my fingers intact to craft!

Insert a nail into the holder, squeeze the sides then hammer away stopping just short of the top of the plastic so you still have room to pull it away before you finish hammering the rest of the nail in.

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Once everything is built and placed where you want it, now is the time to screw each cabinet together. This is where it got a little frustrating for us and where you’ll want to heed the following warning:

In Ikea’s instructions, the diagram they provide for where to screw together the cabinets is somewhat deceiving. We actually misinterpreted it which called for a complete do-over when we discovered our error! Looking at the picture below, we thought you could screw the cabinets together any where along hole 1 through 5. However if you look REAL close, you can see the number 5 is slightly enlarged and the drill is pointed at that hole. Hole #5 is the only place you should be using to screw the cabinets together if you are using doors! We used hole number 3 which interfered with the hinge placement for the doors, so we (meaning my husband!) had to take EVERYTHING apart, re-drill, clamp and screw….. again.

Wouldn’t it be better if they put an X through numbers 1 – 4? I don’t know about you, but I can barely read these days and I had to squint pretty hard to to count the actual number of holes once we realized we did it wrong. I actually got on the phone to customer service to suggest that the pictorial could be improved, but it fell on deaf ears – they felt it was fine as-is.

Use clamps to keep the cabinets stable as you drill and screw them together.

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As I mentioned in my previous post, once your cabinets are screwed together, you MUST also secure them to the wall at the back. My cabinets are going to be fully loaded and HEAVY; the last thing you want is for it to come crashing down on yourself or a child because it’s not fastened to the wall.

Ideally you should screw the cabinets into a stud. Because we were building the room from scratch, and knew the cabinets were going against that particular wall, my husband inserted blocking at the correct height along the full length of the wall.

Here’s how you fasten the cabinets to the wall: put a screw through the middle of the metal bracket at the back of the cabinet. Slip on the keyhole plate as shown, then tighten the screw until it’s tight against the plate. Then snap on the plastic cover…. wash, rinse and repeat for the rest of the cabinets (so to speak) and your cabinets will be safe and secure!

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Don’t miss the step of securing cabinets to the wall!

Before we installed our cabinets, I made the decision to install baseboard in the niche where they would be placed. I didn’t want to leave the baseboard off: in case we ever sell the house in the future and take the cabinets with us, that niche would be nicely finished off like the rest of the room for the new homeowners.

By installing baseboard all around, it prevented the cabinets from being able to be pushed in so they are flat up against the back wall. We might have been able to notch the cabinets out on the bottom at the back so they would clear the baseboard, but they are over 5″ high and I didn’t want to cut that much out. My husband thought when we installed the screws, as shown above, that the cabinets might rack and twist a bit if we over-tightened them. To prevent that from happening, we cut and installed  spacers in between each cabinet (mounted beside, not directly in back of where we were screwing) to hold them out from the wall the same distance as the baseboard. We made sure to mark the strapping behind the drywall on some green tape.  Then we pinned each block behind the cabinet so half of it was sticking out to support the next cabinet beside it once it was put into place. The photos below show the blocks going in, then a side view showing the consistent gap and then all four cabinets installed.

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Installing a spacer against the back of the cabinets to prevent racking when you have baseboards

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From upper left: first cabinet in, side view showing consistent gap to accommodate baseboard and lined up side-by-side

I should mention that we could have trimmed everything out with baseboard and/or crown molding, to make it look built-in, but I didn’t want a built-in look. I intentionally left a gap between the cabinet and the wall on the right side so I could store tall rolls of paper, which I frequently use. I also wanted to add some additional hanging space outside the closed storage unit with this Komplement Valet Hanger so I could hang patterns-in-progress and keep them accessible while I work.

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Once the shell is built, the doors can be attached and the fun part begins; building and installing all the interior components! It might have been easier to leave the doors off while we were installing the interior, but I preferred being able to see where the door hinges would impact the final placements. This is what the unit looked like a few weeks ago after my husband finished off the doors:

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He also finished off this little beauty in a niche that’s covering up one of the support posts holding up our house. It’s a nice way to display my vintage iron collection.

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Lack shelving unit

Indispensable Tools

The things we found most useful to help with assembly were the clamps you saw above, a battery operated drill (with a light), drill extensions, and plastic sleeve (see Installation Tips below this section). Be sure to set the drill at the lowest setting (#1 in our case) so you don’t drive the screws too deep or strip them.

Another thing to be mindful of, when installing the Ikea lack cabinet in particular, is that you will need a looooong screwdriver extension.  Because the hanging plate is located right at the top of the shelf, you’ll be installing it close to the ceiling (especially if you’re installing it in the basement where ceiling heights tend to be lower).  Access, and being able to actually see where you’re drilling and attaching, will be an issue unless you have drill bit extensions. This is where it’s also helpful to have a drill with a guide light on it – or a friend to lend a helping hand by  shining a flashlight into the gap between the shelf and ceiling.

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A long drill bit extension is needed to reach the wall in the gap between the top of the shelf and ceiling

Installation Tips – Drawers

Ikea packs their drawer glides in two different coloured plastic sleeves: blue and clear, which is great for figuring out where each one goes! The colours differentiate between which side of the drawer the slide will be installed – blue indicates right and clear is left. Ikea makes it SO easy to get it right!

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After dropping a few screws while trying to  install the drawer actual glide, we used was a plastic sleeve over the drill bit. It prevents your screws from falling and getting lost as you attach them! My husband was raving about it; it’s a real time saver.

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Plastic sleeve to prevent screws from falling

When you’re installing pull-outs, don’t forget to put on the plastic caps – before the screws. It helps to have all the attachments in one spot before you start working (we forgot to install one pair and had to unscrew and reassemble because we weren’t as diligent about keeping our parts together)!

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Even though I printed a detailed plan from the Pax Planner (which even shows which holes to use!), I made sure I had some of the actual items on-site that I would be storing. As we were assembling, we could double check the heights of these items to make sure things would fit. Here you can see I’ll be storing some plastic bins on the roll-out. Before I installed the solid drawer directly above,  I place the bins on the rollout to see if I would have enough clearance. Better to do it once and do it right!

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Have items on-hand you’ll be storing to judge clearances!

Here is the progress so far. The glass front drawers are great for storing all my sewing thread and spools of yarn for my knitting machines. I can easily see what I have and keep these items dust free! Compare that to clutter of the pegboard I was using in my old studio; I’m so thrilled at how it turned out!

The first solid drawer below the glass ones will store all my sewing patterns. I’ll likely design some kind of DIY divider system to keep them neat and tidy. Then I’ve got closed storage at the bottom with covered bins on a pullout that can easily accessed when needed.

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Yarn and thread storage comparison

Ikea has these great felt trays for the large drawers – they come three to a pack.

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I didn’t see them in the Planner, and I missed them online  before I went to purchase my items, but I immediately snapped some up when I saw them in the store! They’re perfect to keep my sewing hams and yarns (soon to come).

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Easter ham 🙂

The pullouts shown below are PERFECT for storing all my tools. I’ll have separate pullouts for stained glass tools and various other tools I’ll use on a regular basis. I’ll be customizing these pullouts even further once I’m more organized (tutorial to come!)

You’ll notice that I’m still missing a few pull-outs; when we were ready to purchase, everything was in stock when we printed our shopping list in the morning, however Ikea was sold out by the time we got there mid-day…drats! Hubs has a mission this week to scout them out at another location, so I’ll just have to be patient until then 🙂

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A place for everything and everything in its place!

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Tool storage and close bins; glass shelf keeps the dust off my tools while still allowing me to see what’s there!

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Hanging room for cardboard patterns

Customizing an Ikea Pullout

As mentioned in my previous post, the second-hand glass doors we bought for the two end cabinets had  hinges that were located too low on the door, which meant we couldn’t install an Ikea pull-out tray using the hardware supplied.

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With a little finagling, we discovered that we could still use the pullout!  However we needed to find different hardware and modify the pullout in a way that it would clear the hinges and slide in and out without a problem.

Here’s what we did to customize the pullout: using our own bottom-mounted full-extension hardware (purchased at Lee Valley), we dry-fit the drawer in place to insure it would clear the hinge.  In case anyone is interested in doing the same, the drawer glide is 22″ and full extension; below is the product code of the drawer glide hardware from Lee Valley: Ikea for the Studio 555_bof.jpg

With a piece of cardboard used as a spacer on the left hand side (opposite the hinges on the door), we had plenty of clearance to get by the hinge on the right side.

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Figuring out where to position the pullout with new bottom mounted hardware

We measured the placement of the hardware where we wanted to position it in the cabinet (sides, front and back) and transferred those measurements to the underside of the pull-out. There’s a lip underneath the pullout that has to be filled in so the hardware can be attached and slide out properly; so we cut two pieces of wood to act as spacers to be attached onto the underside of the pullout to make it flush.

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Positioning the runners

We transferred our measurements to the back of the pull-out tray with pencil so we had a guide to position our spacers.

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Measurements transferred to bottom of pull-out tray and straight lines drawn for location of wooden spacers

I didn’t want to screw into the underside of the pullout because the material is so thin, so we used double sided taped to attach the wooden spacers onto it instead.

If anyone reading this knows of a faster method of getting the plastic backing off this stuff without struggling with it for more than five minutes, let me know in the comments! Double sided tape is great but it’s the bane of my existence when it comes to time management!

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Double sided tape gets applied to the spacers and then the spacers are attached to the underside of pull-out tray

We drew a line right down the middle of each wood spacer to centre our screw holes, then we separated the two pieces of hardware. We put a small piece of double face tape at either end of the solid piece of metal (the one without all the bearings as shown below).  We lined the hardware up with the centre line we drew, then pressed it down firmly to hold it in place.

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We predrilled in three places along the length of each spacer; to prevent yourself from pre-drilling the hole too deep, wrap a piece of green tape around the drill bit at the depth you want to drill to. Once the drill bit reaches the top of the tape, it’s time to move on and pre-drill the next one!

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We installed the screws where we predrilled. We then reattached the piece of hardware we removed, flipped the whole thing right-side up again and positioned the pull-out tray in the cabinet against the cardboard spacer, ready to be screwed down.

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Re attach the mechanism you removed earlier

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Flip the pull-out tray right side up once hardware is put back together

Slide the sliding mechanism out from the pullout at the back part way and line both ends up against the back of the cabinet.  Make sure that it’s also tight against the cardboard spacer (seen on the left).

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Once the pullout was positioned exactly where we wanted it, we then predrilled and screwed the back end into place. Hubs wanted me to pass along to you that pre-drilling the hole actually strengthens the bond of the screw because you’re not ‘ripping’ the fibres apart.  There was only one exception where we didn’t pre-drill, which you’ll see below, to prevent sawdust from getting into the ball bearings.

You may notice that the cardboard spacer is on the right side in the picture below; that’s because we’re doing another pull-out tray here on the opposite side of the cabinet, so everything is flipped around.

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Vacuum up wood debris as you go and pre-drill the middle of the drawer glides through the bottom of the cabinet (we used three screws – at the back, middle and front for each side – for a total of six).

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When the back and middle are screwed in place, it’s better to remove the tray from the hardware and finish off the front, then remount it when you’re done. As mentioned previously, hubs didn’t pre-drill the front holes because he didn’t want to create sawdust that might get caught up in the ball bearings and clog them up. He simply screwed in the front without pre-drilling.

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Screw the runners at the back, move to the middle and then finally finish at the front

Here is the adapted pullout all done; now it houses my glass grinder.

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Ikea for the Studio 522_bof.jpg

Custom pull-out for glass grinder

After the first pull-out tray was done, I wanted another one on the opposite side of the cabinet too so we placed the two drawers side by side and repeated the same steps (allowing us to transfer all the original measurements as a ‘mirror’ image):

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Here is how the other side of the cabinet looked before we installed the pull-out tray. Notice that it’s hard to reach into the back to get the plastic bin (even for hubs who has long arms, unlike me!):

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And here is the completed pull-out tray before we put the glass shelf back in place:

And here is the completed pull-out tray before we put the glass shelf back in place:

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Now the bin at the back is MUCH easier to reach

Now that the pull-out trays are done, here are another few shots of the completed interior organizers. Now I just have to fill it all – which WON’T be a problem 🙂

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Not an inch of space will go wasted. I even have a stationery shelf that will hold larger flat items such as my cutting mats and tissue paper:

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Costs

If you’re wondering how much my Ikea storage solution cost in the end, I would like to answer priceless; I wish I had done this in my old studio! However, below you will find the breakdown in Canadian dollars, taking into the account the 15% discount (Ikea was running a Pax promotion at the time I bought), sales tax and the fact that I purchased my doors (and three drawers) second-hand for only $200. I  honestly thought I would have to budget around $4K in order to pack so much functionality (and beauty) into organizing my new studio!

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Grand total

Well, that wraps it for now — until I’ve transferred all my stuff from my previous studio!  I hope you’ve enjoyed playing ‘Pax-Man’ (or in my case Pax-[wo]Man) as much as I did!

Ikea store layout_Pax Man_FINAL_BOF_FINAL

If there’s a craft studio in your near future too, tell me about it in the comments. If this project has inspired you, please pin and share on Facebook.

Here’s a sneak peak of the final reveal of my craft studio which you can find here.

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UPDATE: Now that my craft studio is done I’ve launched a brand new blog – Birdz of a Feather ~ Craft Rehab – that’s dedicated solely to crafting. Check it out and you’ll not only find cool (and sustainable!) crafts, but a post on how I finally organized my craft studio.

Here are just a few of the projects I’ve done on Craft Rehab:

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At Birdz of a Feather, we’re feathering the nest… one room at a time. Follow my blog here or on Bloglovin’ to see other DIY projects, in and around the home.

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13 thoughts on “The Making of a Craft Studio (Part III) – If You Build It, She Will Come!!

  1. Pingback: The Making of a Craft Studio (II): Design Your Space Using Ikea’s Pax Planner! | Birdz of a Feather Home

  2. Sara, this is brilliantly designed and executed. You’ve thought of everything. I love the clear-faced drawers and the flexibility of the system. Those drawers are perfect for all the crafting supplies that will soon live there, and hurray for storage that looks fabulous when closed but is easy to get to. I love what you’ve done.

    I smiled when I saw your paper patterns and hangers. What a flashback to my theater costuming days. I remember them well. I have a good friend who also worked as a pattern maker for Gunne Sax in San Francisco for a time, and she too had a studio at home.

    I’m really enjoying seeing your craft room unfold. I hope we get to see the man cave when it’s completed as well.

    Finally, this is a great tutorial for anyone wanting to do the same.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thanks for taking the time to read it and provide your feedback; I value it greatly! You will get to see the Mancave unfold eventually: my husband is taking care of the design etc. and I think he wants nothing more than to throw a couch down there and do nothing but finally relax. He’s done the entire basement on his own from start to finish, so he deserves a break 🙂

      Like

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