Upcycled Clock for Craft Studio

OK, so it’s not a far stretch to upcycle a clock into another clock, but when I stumbled upon an Umbra clock at my local Value Village, it struck me that I didn’t yet have one for my craft studio.

Here’s how it started out:


With a vinyl sticker, I knew I could turn it into a one-of-a-kind piece to sport my Birdz of a Feather logo. Once I saw the price, it was a no-brainer; you can’t even buy a clock mechanism for that!

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The clock is battery operated and held on by a nut and some washers so it was easy to take it apart with a socket wrench.

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Once it was apart, I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol so the sticker would adhere well. I peeled back a small section of the sticker and positioned it where I wanted it.

If you didn’t want to use a vinyl sticker, you could also print out your graphic on paper and decoupage it onto the clock face.

I have to admit that I didn’t use a graphic squeegee applicator to smooth it out as I peeled the backing and that was a big mistake. I ended up with air bubbles everywhere! I had to use a safety pin to carefully pick up an edge and peel it off again (one half at a time) and then lay it down smoothly again with the squeegee. You just can’t do it without a tool! If you don’t have a squeegee, a credit card will also work in a pinch.

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I put the clock works back in the order they were taken off and I was done!


You might remember the vintage hutch shelf hubs and I upcycled a few months ago. I thought the clock would look great hanging from the pegboard! I used a plastic hook especially made for pegboard to hold the clock on.

All-in-all, not a bad little project for $1.50 + the cost of the vinyl sticker!


Hubs and I are busy as bees with my craft studio and it’s looking great. Last weekend we had some much appreciated help moving in and setting up all the heavy equipment!

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I’ll have the final reveal of my craft studio in the next week or two! In the meantime, feel free to check out the progression of my craft studio to date:

  1. The Making of a Craft Studio– Calling All Crafters: Help Me Decide the Best Layout for my New Studio
  2. The Making of a Craft Studio (II)– Design Your Space Using Ikea’s Pax Planner!
  3. The Making of a Craft Studio (III) – If You Build It, She Will Come!
  4. The Making of a Craft Studio (IV) – Progress Report

At Birdz of a Feather, we’re feathering the nest… one room at a time. If this project has inspired you, please pin and share on Facebook.

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Hometalk HQ Challenge: Plant Basket

When the Hometalk Headquarter decor challenge was announced, I contacted Cori to find out a little bit more about their renovation and learned that the new space would be wide open. What better way to decorate a new space than with greenery? The list of benefits from office plants include increased creativity, improved productivity, reduced absenteeism, increased engagement with work, etc., so how could I NOT include a decor item incorporating a plant into my final project?

Plants that are low maintenance make great office plants, and that includes plants that require relatively low amounts of water, so succulents are a great choice as long as they’re placed in a spot with lots of natural light!

Today I’ll be showing you how to make a basket to ‘house’ a planter filled with succulents.

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This project was ‘inspired’ by the Hometalk logo, but this time I didn’t recreate it literally as I did with my previous projects.  I upcycled a leftover piece of cut MDF from some centrepieces I created for a baseball-themed Bar Mitzvah.


It struck me that the MDF ‘baseball diamond’ was house shaped, so I used the wooden base as a starting point for my basket. I used the same base as a backer for the vinyl record art I created for my VW Bug Keyholder. I love to upcycle so I NEVER throw anything away!

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Originally, we purchased the MDF from Home Depot. I painted the MDF base Hometalk’s signature blue and then marked 1/2″ increments around the perimeter. Hubs used a drill press to drill around the edge. I used a toothpick to clear out the holes and make sure that there was no debris left for the next step.

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To complete the rest of this project you’ll need: wooden craft dowels, twine, sisal rope, white glue, a glue gun, glue sticks and beads with a large enough hole to slip over the dowels. I also wanted to incorporate some of the signature blue into the woven element so I added in a strand of turquoise using some yarn I already owned.

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The mini dowels act as the ‘ribs’ of the basket. I added a dab of glue onto the bottom of each one and hammered them into the holes with a rubber mallet so they wouldn’t split. Let it dry over night, then you’re ready to begin weaving.

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I tied a knot and attached my twine/yarn combination to the dowel in the lower left corner and then started weaving in and out around the dowels. If you don’t want to make a basket, you could also turn this piece into a desk tray to hold various items and cut the dowels off at a lower height. Below you can see I was experimenting with placing a pen holder in the centre.

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Here’s a closeup of the twine/yarn combo. I think the blue coordinates beautifully with the base and adds a nice touch of colour to the finished product.


Once you’re back to where you started at the corner, loop back around the last dowel so you can start weaving in the opposite direction. This will leave a gap at the corner, but don’t worry about it because it will get covered up from the inside with all the ends from the weaving.

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As you weave each row, push down on the twine to ensure the rows are level. Once the dowels were almost half woven , I added in two pieces of sisal rope to act as handles.

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Before I attached them to the basket, I took some thinner sisal and wound it around the cut edges so they wouldn’t unravel.

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Then I positioned them along the side and wove them into the starter row.

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Here’s a closer look at one of the handles from the inside of the basket. It’s not necessary to hot glue it to the sides because the weaving will hold it tight.

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On subsequent rows, you’ll need to position the handles either up or down in order to weave them in and secure them into the basket. You’ll get the feel for it as you go; I’d never woven before and once you get going, it becomes intuitive.


Since you will be doubling back at the end of each row, take the opportunity to loop around both corner posts at least once to keep them together and strengthen the corner as shown below.

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I continued weaving until I used up all the twine and didn’t have enough to complete another row. Then I knotted the twine/yarn combo around the two corner posts where I originally started. Don’t cut the tail – you’ll need it later.

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To finish off the top edge I used a much thicker sisal rope. Because I wasn’t sure how much I would need to go around the entire perimeter, I unraveled the whole skein and folded it in the half in the middle. The picture below doesn’t show the corner dowel, it only demonstrates the fold of the rope, however I actually looped it onto the same dowel I initially started with in the lower left corner of the basket.

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Starting from left to right, bring one strand around the first dowel and criss-cross the other strand right over it in the opposite direction around the same dowel as shown in the picture below. Tighten as you go to keep it consistent, but don’t pull so tight that you skew the positioning of dowels (or worse yet, break one)! This rope feature will give you a braided look along the edge.


When the edging is complete, bring both pieces of the rope to the inside of the corner as shown five pictures below and follow the instructions under ‘finishing off the edging’ to secure it to the inside of the basket.

To finish off the top of each dowel, dab a bit of white glue onto a bead and insert it onto the top of the dowel. You can also use hot glue if you’re careful not to drip it everywhere! I bought a variety of different coloured beads from the dollar store; if you want to switch up your decor you could even forgo the glue and switch out the beads whenever the mood strikes. The weaving around the top is tight so it’s not going to go anywhere; the beads are just to give it a finished look.

As you can see below, not every dowel is exactly the same length, so just take a mini hacksaw and trim off any that are too long and protruding past the bead.


I stopped weaving the handles in before I got to the top of the basket because I thought it might look good if they just flopped to the sides, but when I was done I changed my mind. I used the bodkin shown below and some of the turquoise yarn to secure the handles to the sides of the basket so they would stand up better.


Once you’re done with the decorative stitching, place a dab of hot glue over the knots of the yarn on the inside of the basket to hold it securely and keep it from loosening over time.


Finishing off the Edging

At the corner, bring the double strands of rope to the inside of the basket. Remember that tail of twine/yarn you saved from the main weaving? Use it to wrap around the two pieces of the rope to secure it all together. When you get to the end, secure the twine with a dab of hot glue underneath the rope where it can’t be seen.


I used a clip to help secure the twine while I was determining the length to cut it and reaching for the glue gun. It acts as a second pair of hands.

Eyeball the length of the interior corner from the top of the basket to the base and apply a dab of hot glue to join the two pieces of rope near the bottom. Also apply hot glue just above where you will be cutting the rope to keep it from fraying (glue along the inside where it won’t be seen). Cut the rope even with the bottom of the basket and then secure it to the corner base with a dab of hot glue (again where it won’t be seen).


I didn’t glue along the seam itself: I only glued the rope at the bottom as I didn’t want glue oozing out through the weave of the basket!


Here’s how the rope looks from the inside of the basket secured to the inside corner. If you wish, you can take a pair of scissors and trim away some of the longer ‘flyaway’ strands of the sisal to tidy it up.


I didn’t add the ‘Inspire‘ wording to the basket as shown below, but if I was using this as a desk tray I might add it in to coordinate with the earlier pieces I created for the Hometalk HQ decor challenge. Of course, the handles wouldn’t be necessary to add if you were making this as a tray.


Here’s a look at the final basket on its own.

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I used a planter filled with succulents that I already owed to demonstrate how pretty it would be planted up.

If I had more time I would definitely make a custom hypertufa planter to mimic the shape of the inside of Hometalk’s logo – and fabricate it in white concrete! It just so happens that I have a DIY tutorial on how to construct a hypertufa planter that you can use to accessorize this basket if you want to take it that one step further.

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The possibilities are endless for this project: you could make this basket in any shape your heart desires. I already have special plans to make a thank-you gift, and for my own craft studio I’m going to weave a basket using my Birdz of a Feather logo so I can use it for thread storage. I’ll update you on both projects once they’re done.

Well, that concludes my ‘Inspire’ series for Hometalk’s HQ. It’s time for me and Hubs to turn our attention to putting the finishing touches on my craft studio. I’m looking forward to reclaiming our dining room table again and to bringing you even more projects once my new craft space is up and running!

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If you enjoyed this project, please pin and post on Facebook. To see the other projects in the ‘Inspire‘ series created just for Hometalk, click the links below.

Hometalk HQ Challenge: Inpire-Themed Office Decor


Cubicle Wall Art – How to Print 8″ x 10″ Art Canvasses with a Printer

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Cubicle Wall Art – How to Print 8″ x 10″ Art Canvasses with a Printer!

You may remember the Inspire‘ themed office decor items I created for the Hometalk HQ DIY Challenge:

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I’m back with another project in the Inspire series, but this time it’s an idea for cubicle wall art. We spend 57% of our waking time at work, so why not surround ourselves with artwork  to make that time more enjoyable?

You can create your own one-of-a-kind creations yourself using a home printer and pre-made 8″ x 10″ canvasses. Below is some artwork I created  exclusively for Hometalk’s head quarter decor challenge, once again using the Hometalk logo.

UPDATE: It was a great honor when I was contacted by Hometalk at the beginning of October to let me know that they wanted to purchase my project for their newly renovated digs! It’s now found a new home in New York City!

I used Illustrator to design the graphic but if you’re not inclined to work with graphics programs, you can probably experiment and use the tutorial to print other wall art that you’d like to hang, such as a photograph (although I haven’t personally tried it myself).

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I purchased a 10-pack of Artists Loft Super Value Canvas from Michaels to bring my newest ‘Inspire’ creation to life.  Of course I ran out of printer ink by the time I was ready to print it so the canvas turn out less saturated than the cartoon prints that inspired this post (which you’ll see a sample of below).

The Original Project That Inspired This Post

Hubs and I don’t like to take ourselves too seriously (afterall, laughter is the best medicine!), so I was inspired to immortalize our day-to-day antics. A few years ago, I printed a series of cartoon canvasses using my own home computer and store-bought 8″ x 10″ canvasses back when Bitstrips was an app on Facebook.  Since then, I believe that Bitstrips has since been removed from Facebook, so you can’t replicate my cartoon idea.  However, you can still use this tutorial as inspiration to print your own art canvas, like I did for Hometalk’s HQ challenge. I’ve provided a step-by-step tutorial to show you how I did it!

Here’s a closeup of just one of the canvasses in my cartoon series. I added a ‘film-strip’ effect border around each of the cartoons to balance the white space around the artwork and to group them together more effectively.

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It’s fairly easy to transfer your ideas onto canvas using a home printer and artwork that has been sized to fit onto an 8″ x 10″ area. The canvasses were printed with the aid of some freezer paper to stiffen the canvas (see more about the printer below under footnote #2). Printing directly to canvas results in artwork that pops!

If you don’t have a suitable printer, you should be able to achieve a similar effect using T-shirt transfer paper. I haven’t used T-shirt transfer paper personally so you will have to experiment if that’s the method you use. One thing you will have to keep in mind if you have wording as part of your visual when using the T-shirt transfer method: you’ll need to mirror the image in a graphic program so that when you iron it onto the canvas, the printing is legible.

To start, I used Powerpoint to scale my images.

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To use the printer method that I used, you will need the following supply list:

  • 8” x 10” canvasses1
  • Reynolds Freezer Paper (generally found in the grocery store with tin foil and plastic wrap)
  • Upholstery staple puller
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Ziploc bag (to save the staples if you choose to reuse them)
  • Scissors
  • Inkjet printer 2
  • Ziploc bag (to hold the staples)


Canvas. I recommend using a 50% off coupon from Michaels and buying the 10 piece Artists Loft Super Value Canvas Pack illustrated on the right. I’m not sure about the United States, but last time I checked they were selling for $16.99 in Canada (regular price).

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The Printer: The printer I use is an Epson WF-3540. It has a rear feed slot that can accommodate heavy stock. Note that the printer slot MUST measure at least 9”wide in order to be able to print directly on canvas to accommodate the canvas once it’s opened up and refolded (as you’ll see later).

The Graphics Fairy also recommends Epson printers in her post on the best printers for crafting. The reason she likes Epson printers (other than the fact that she has affiliate links on her site), is because “because many of them (although not all) come with pigment inks, that are both waterproof and fade-proof, which makes it the perfect ink for crafting!  This means your ink won’t run or bleed, even when you apply something wet over top of it, like various types of glues,  Mod Podge, etc.” I don’t have any affiliations, however I do concur that Epson inks are great! If you are buying a printer for crafting, look for an Epson that uses Dura Brite Ultra Ink (my particular printer takes a 127 cartridge).

Instructions for Canvas Prep

  1. Cut a piece of Reynolds Freezer Paper to 9” x 11.5”. This size needs to be slightly bigger than a standard 8 1/2″ by 11″ piece of paper because of the canvas; a rear printer slot should be able to accommodate this custom size.Note that you won’t be able to get two full pieces out of the width of the freezer paper because of the size (9” x 11.5”). Don’t be tempted to skimp on the size of the freezer paper (even if it’s only 1/4”) — it needs to be cut to the exact size of the folded canvas (as you’ll see further ahead) to get the best result when printing.  To make up for that ‘waste’, you’ll find that the freezer paper is reusable, so don’t toss it out after only one use.
  1. Remove all the staples from the canvas using the upholstery staple puller shown below. Set the staples aside in a Ziploc bag if you wish to reuse them.
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  1. Set aside the frame.
    Note: once the canvas is printed, pair it back together again with the same frame if you’re going to reuse the staples so you can fit them back into their original holes).Bulhead decor_021.jpg
  1. Now that the canvas is free from the frame, there will be two sets of creases all the way around the sides. Put the iron onto medium heat and iron out the canvas on the wrong side (i.e. the side without gesso) until all the creases are slightly flattened. The goal isn’t to make the creases disappear completely—it’s just to open the piece out. Do this in a well ventilated area as the fumes can be quite smelly.Bulhead decor_017.jpg
  1. With the canvas flattened and still facing wrong side up, refold the outer crease all the way around and iron it flat, as shown below. If you’re using the value pak from Michael’s and the piece doesn’t measure 9” wide by 11.5” long, then you know you’ve folded it wrong. Don’t worry if the edges don’t lie perfectly flat—the freezer paper will hold it them place in the next step. Bulhead decor_026.jpg
  2. Take the piece of freezer paper you previously cut (shiny side down/paper side up) and place over the canvas (which is still facing wrong side up with the margins folded in). The freezer paper will be the exact same size as the canvas and will effectively sandwich in the folded sides. Iron the freezer paper onto the canvas until it is well attached; keep the iron moving to prevent burning. Make sure the corners are as flat as you can get them (this could be a place where the canvas catches and jams in the printer). Let it cool slightly before placing in the printer—but not so long that it starts to curl. If that happens, iron it flat again.

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    Freezer paper is ironed onto the canvas, sandwiching in the edges. Ensure it’s well adhered everywhere – especially at the corners

Printing your Images to Canvas

I’ve included instructions that explain how I printed from my own Epson printer, but you will need to experiment with your own printer if you have a different brand or model. If you’re not careful you can jam your printer and may not be able to clear it, so DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! 

  1. Take the canvas that is now fused to the freezer paper to your printer and feed it into the rear slot. Be sure to read your own printer instructions to determine which side needs to face up (otherwise you’ll end up printing on the freezer paper instead of the canvas and will waste the ink!). Sometimes my printer ejected it and it took several tries until it automatically fed the canvas it into the slot. This part can be finicky and requires patience until it feeds properly.  If it doesn’t take after a few tries,  it could be a matter of taking it back to the iron again to make sure the corners are flattened as much as they can be.
  2. Now at the computer, go into Print / Properties. Select ‘Rear Paper Feed Slot’ as the paper source. Below that, click on borderless (I’m not sure if it makes any difference, but this is how I printed mine). I set the paper type to card stock (because the canvas and freezer paper are thick), quality on high and selected ‘color’ as shown below. Then click ‘ok’ and it will bring you back to the main print screen.Powerpoint 10_BOF.jpg
  1. All my cartoon artwork was set up in a powerpoint file so at the main print screen, I selected “current slide” as the print range to print only one canvas at a time. However, you can use whatever graphic software you have at-hand and are familiar with (I sometimes also use illustrator and save my file as a pdf, then print from that).Powerpoint 12_bof.jpg
  1. With all the settings complete, now you can print. I only had the canvas jam once while it was printing and I was able to clear it. The trick is to make sure that the edges are as flat as you can make them and the freezer paper well-adhered everywhere so nothing catches while in the printer.
  1. Marvel at the beauty of your first canvas! Let it dry for a few minutes, then carefully peel off the freezer paper while it’s still warm. You can reuse this freezer paper again for your next canvas: I was able to get about 6 – 7 uses out of each one before I had to cut another piece.
  1. Keep the frame together with the canvas it came from; this will make reattaching the canvas easier if you decide to reuse the staples you pulled out earlier. Ideally, if you have the space, spread the canvasses out on a flat surface to dry for a day before you reattach it to the frame. If you don’t have space, you can stack them on top of each other with a piece of waxed paper in between until you’re ready to finish them.
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Hot off the press… printer

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Peel back paper after print is dry and reattach to frame

Reattaching the Canvas to the Frame

I’m pretty fanatical when it comes to reducing waste, so I saved all the staples and reused them, putting each one back in by hand. If you don’t want to take the extra time to do that, you can use a staple gun to add new staples and reattach the canvas.

If you plan to reuse the old staples to reattach the canvas to the frame, you will need:

  • Small hammer (I used the side of a nail remover as a hammer)
  • Staples that were removed
  • Needle nosed pliers (in case you need to straighten out some of the staples)
  • Printed canvasses and frames


  1. If any of the staples are bent, straighten them with the needle nose pliers.
  2. Line up the canvas so that the holes in the canvas match the holes in the frame. That way, you can reuse the same holes.
  3. Starting in the middle of one side, put a staple through the canvas, line it up with the holes in the frame then tap it into place.
  4. Put a staple in the middle of the three remaining sides, then fold in the corners and tap in a staple to each of the four corners. Add the remaining staples all around the frame until complete.Bulhead decor_049.jpg

Hanging your Artwork on the Wall of Your Cubicle

To hang your artwork on the wall of your cubicle you can glue half of a binder clip to the back of the canvas and attach it to your cubicle with a push pin, as I showed you in the first post I did for the Inspire series of office accessories:

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If you’re lucky enough not to work in a cubicle and have actual wall space, use a medium size 3M Command Strip. Since the canvas is light, you only need one for each canvas, centered onto the top of each frame. Follow the instructions that came with the package.

If you enjoyed this tutorial, please pin and share on Facebook.

Now that you have the basics, I hope you have as much fun creating your canvasses as I did, however if you happen to jam your printer, don’t say I didn’t warn you:)

If that scared you off, I’ll have at least one more ‘inspired’ office decor item coming up that you won’t want to miss. Until then, check out a few of my other craft ideas:

Vinyl Record Art – Creating a VW Bug Key Holder

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Muskoka Chair Challenge at the Ontario Science Centre


Paint Chip Portrait

Paint chip portrait_Birdz of a Feather

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Hometalk HQ Challenge: Inspire-Themed Office Decor

When Cori announced that Hometalk was redecorating its New York offices and was looking for decor items, it was game on! She put a challenge out to the community to come up with DIY creations that would inspire. She even added an optional caveat to incorporate some element of Hometalk such as the teal colour, the word Hometalk or the logo.

I wanted to create something that would inspire the staff as much as the site inspires me to be creative so I took the challenge to heart. Afterall, our office space is a home away from home (or closer than that if you’re lucky enough to work at home).

I came up with three different, but easy, office inspired decor projects that staff could use to embellish their own personal office space – with form and function in mind! I upcycled several items I already had and sourced the rest from the dollar store.

I chose to use Hometalk’s logo in these designs, but you’re only limited by your own creativity and these can be adapted to any shape!

Project #1: Test Tube ‘Inspire’ Flower Arrangement

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Who doesn’t want to add a little beauty in their office space in the form of fresh flowers? This project uses the following items:


  1. A 9 3/4″ square cork trivet (I got mine at Ikea)
  2. Part of a binder clip – or 3M strips – as a hanging device
  3. Those little plastic tubes you get with floral arrangements (courtesy of hubs who buys me flowers – a lot!)
  4. Sheet of acetate
  5. Large vinyl coated eye hooks (1 – 3/4″)
  6. Paint (teal and white)
  7. Glue gun & glue
  8. Push pin

I actually did the first two projects at the same time because they were cut to two different sizes and I was able to use the extra cork from the smaller project as the centre of the larger one.

Start by scaling the hometalk logo. The large one is scaled to fit an 8 1/2″ x 11″ piece of paper and the small one is scales to 6 1/2″. Draw both the outer and inner outline and cut the paper out. Trace the logo onto the cork with a pen (I traced it onto the back of the cork, but you could do it from the front instead).

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Here you can see the size difference between the first two projects:

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Cut the cork pieces out, Hubs used a bandsaw to cut most of the pieces for me, but I also used a dollar store fine tooth hack saw on the centre section (it was slow but worked just fine).

Take a piece of 100 grit sandpaper and round over any square cut edges to match the rest of the trivet. I find that a beveled sanding sponge is also useful to help round over the edges.

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Paint the outer piece blue and the centre piece of cork you cut out of scrap in white paint. You can either spray or brush it on with a foam brush.

Print out the word ‘inspire’, place it under a sheet of acetate and place a self healing cutting mat under your work. Then cut out the stencil with an X-acto knife and position it over the cork. Using white paint on  a very dry brush, pounce it over the lettering to keep the paint from bleeding under the stencil. If you do get some bleeding, you can touch it up with a fine brush with the blue. I also outlined it with a fine black marker to give it some definition (as you can see, I tested it first on the cork with my initial which will be hidden later with another piece of cork!)

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For the centre, figure out the positioning for the eye hooks and pierce starter holes with a toothpick. Flip it over and add double face tape onto the back. Peel off the tape and position on the front of the larger piece of cork. Using the starter holes, screw in the eye hooks and position them so that they are pointing to one side. You need to have this double layer of cord to accommodate the depth of the screw, otherwise it will poke out the back! Add the plastic test tubes to rest in the eye hooks.

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Squeeze to remove one half of a binder clip arm and hot glue onto the back of the cork at the top to act as a hanging loop (you can glue a scrap piece of felt or foam over the ends to prevent it from scratching the surface it will be mounted to). You can then use a push pin to attach the hanging loop to your cubicle wall! Alternatively, you could use 3M strips if mounting to a wall.

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All that’s left is to go out a buy a few flower stems to complete it.  Lift out the tubes, remove the tops and fill the tubes with water. Cut the stems and insert through the top first and then pop the top back onto the tube; close tightly.

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Project #3:  Business Card and Post-It Note OrganizerHometalk HQ Challenge 113_BOF Inspire.jpg


  1. Post-it notes
  2. Cork Trivet
  3. Cassette tape
  4. White foam
  5. Part of a binder clip – or 3M strips – as a hanging device
  6. Double face tape
  7. Glue gun & glue
  8. Paint (teal only)
  9. Push pin

Follow the steps above to cut and paint your piece. The middle section of this one is made of white foam instead of cork. You can tell I’ve had this foam for a while because that’s when items at the dollar store really did cost a dollar – not $1.25 or $2.00 or even $3.00!

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Can you guess what the business card holder is? It’s one half of an old tape cassette plastic shell!

Open the cassette and take out the tape and paper. The two pieces of the ‘hinge’ can be separated giving you a pocket piece to hold some of your business cards.

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Position the tape cassette tape case under the white foam. Once happy with the positioning, double face tape it to the cork. Apply double face tape to the foam and position it onto the cork and over the top portion of the cassette tape case to hide the edge.

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Once that’s done, you can add some sticky notes to the centre. If you can find white to blend in with the foam, all the better (I just used what I had on-hand). Hubs used a chop saw to cut the bottom of a regular stack of Post-it notes into the shape of a house to mimic the Hometalk Logo. I only did this for demonstration purposes and I wouldn’t do it again: paper flew everywhere and it was hard to clamp so probably not the safest thing to cut. We made sure we were not cutting the top side with the glue or we’d be cutting away all the adhesive!

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Add the other half of the binder clip arm as you did in the first project and hang. You can velcro a pen to the side if you wish, as shown in the third project below.

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If you like, you can also add some scissors by attaching another cup hook to hang them. The backer board shown below is made of wood and I didn’t end up using it for this particular project – or adding the scissors – because I went with a smaller size. As an option, I could have completed this one and added dry erase film as the white centre to make this into a dry erase message board.

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For my own office in my craft room-in-progress, I would use cork in a round shape and fashion my trademark Birdz of a Feather logo into a message board using chalk board paint on one side and dry erase film on the other. The options are endless!

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Project #2: Desk Top Dry Erase ‘Inspire’ To-Do Board


  1. Dollar store frame
  2. Card stock
  3. Printer with colour ink
  4. Dry erase pen
  5. Self-sticking velcro

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The last project is a dry erase to-do board for the desk top. All you need is a 4″ x 6″ frame from the dollar store with glass that slides out, a dry erase marker, some card stock, a printer and self adhesive velcro.

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I used illustrator to design the to-do list. I added ‘inspire’ down the side and made it transparent so it would fade into the background but still be noticeable.

If you want to print your own Hometalk to-do list/dry erase board, I’ve attached the pdf for you to make your own! Dry Erase Board Printout

Once printed, cut the card to 4″ x 6″ with a paper cutter.

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Add a small piece of self adhesive velcro onto the dry erase marker and the side of the picture frame stand so you can keep them together (rough side goes on the frame). Slip the cardstock behind the glass, write our your to-do list and you’re ready to tackle your day.

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I still have that piece of wooden board left that I showed earlier and have come up with a few more office decor projects. I won’t divulge what they are just yet; you’ll just have to follow my blog if you’re curious to see them once they’re posted!

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At Birdz of a Feather, we’re feathering the nest… one room at a time. If this project has inspired you, please pin and share on Facebook.

Follow my blog here or on Bloglovin’ to see other DIY projects in and around the home.

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